Wednesday, February 4, 2009

The Basics Of Shortening Sleeves

By Donna Trumble

A friend of mine called the other day and told me that she had just bought a new blouse. The only problem was that it had long sleeves. I told her to shorten the sleeve, but she was worried she might make a mistake and ruin the blouse.

We live in Texas where it commonly reaches a hundred degrees during the summer. Long sleeved shirts are just too hot to wear. So one day, my husband and I decided we would just shorten a bunch of his long sleeved shirts. It is just like having brand new shirts.

Long sleeves can easily be shortened or made into short sleeves. Indeed, you can alter the length of a sleeve almost at will. This is until you have already cut off part of the sleeve. The challenge is to alter the sleeve correctly.

Altering a blouse or shirt sleeve is a project that can be quick and easy. Yes, there are probably a hundred different variations on how to do it. Cuff or no cuff, sleeveless, short sleeve, three quarter sleeve, fancy or simple. There are a bunch of choices, but for this project we decided to keep it simple.

Step One, set the length of sleeve you want. This sounds easy, and it is. However, you do have to choose the length you want for this sleeve. You may determine this length by comparing other shirts until you find one that is just right. You can even use this other shirt like a template.

Now that you have a clear idea what length you want, measure from the top seam at the shoulder down to the point you want your sleeve to end. Then measure from the under arm seam to the same point parallel point on the sleeve. To this measurement, add one and a half inches. Mark the sleeve straight across with a fabric marker.

Step Three, cut straight across the sleeve between the outer and under measurement marks.

Step Four, remove the stitching along the inside of the sleeve to the underarm seam. Keep in mind that the shape of the sleeve tapers. You will need to carefully reshape the sleeve to avoid binding under the arm. To accomplish this, seam on the inside of the sleeve along the taper.

To accommodate for the tapering, you will need to reverse the taper angle for the final inch and a half. This way when the hem is folded in, it will match the taper.

Fifth, turn under ", and press. Fold again 1, and press. You may either topstitch this hem or blind hem. Examine the blouse or shirt carefully. Is there any top stitching around the collar or down the front of the shirt? If there is topstitching, topstitch the sleeve. If you find that there is no apparent top stitching anywhere on the shirt, you will need to stitch the sleeve together with a blind hem.

If you have a professional blind hem stitching machine, you will get the best results. Otherwise, your sewing machine probably came with a blind hem foot. If you do not have a blind hem foot, you can get one at your local sewing machine dealers store. It is also possible to hand stitch the seam if necessary. - 17943

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